Since making the switch from PC to Mac, I've discovered a level of recording freedom that was only hinted at while still operating within the constraints of Windows. As Mac was designed especially for multimedia applications, its architecture (based on UNIX) is hard-wired for the moving of sound and images, though getting set up to record will take some getting used to for many. Here are a few basic tips to get you started.
1) How do I plug in?
First, you will need an interface, since you cannot plug directly into the Mac itself (it has a Line-In jack, which is louder than Mic level, so any attempts to use this for recording will yield something like the sonic equivalent of oatmeal.) Some suggested interfaces include the Griffin iMic (http://www.griffintechnology.com/products/imic2/index.php) and the MacMice MicFlex (http://www.mac-pro.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.334/it.A/id.1896/.f), both of which retail in the $30-$40 range and utilize a USB connection (as opposed to Firewire.) Though not always necessary, it's a good idea to invest in a pre-amp, which supplies phantom power and will enable you to achieve a strong recording signal. The M-Audio Mobilepre pre-amp (http://www.m-audio.com/products/en_us/MobilePreUSB-main-1.html) is bus-powered, which means you can take it with you to record anywhere your laptop goes without the need for a wall-socket for juice. The price is a bit steep ($179), but well-worth being able to take your act where ever you wish to go.
If you've got a built-in pickup or transducer for your dulcimer, plugging straight in will work just fine. But if you're going to be using a microphone, my suggestion is to invest in a Shure SM-57 (http://www.shure.com/microphones/models/sm57.asp). It's the workhorse of the recording industry and is a directional microphone, which means it concentrates on whatever you're pointing it at and isolates any noise outside of that range. This is great in eliminating "room noise" that you get when using table-top and plastic microphones. Again, it's an investment, and using one of the built-in mic set-ups mentioned above will work just fine. Just remember, the better the equipment, the better the sound!
2) Okay, I'm plugged in - now what?
This is actually the easy part for Mac users, as most Macs nowadays come packaged with a program called Garageband (http://www.apple.com/ilife/garageband/). This is a very easy-to-use program that allows you to record, mix and output tracks. If you're using an older Mac that didn't come bundled with the software, you can pick up a copy of iLife '06 for about $79 which includes a whole lot more than just the recording software, but is a real bargain for what it can do. Not only can you record individual tracks, including multiple instruments, but there are a number of "loops" built-in which feature drums, bass, guitars, fiddles and even banjos and mandolins! As their name implies, loops can be looped over and over again to create backing tracks for your dulcimer playing. For anyone that goes this route, a separate Garageband tutorial would certainly be in order! If you're running Mac OSX and aren't willing to shell out any more cash for a program, Griffin has a free download called Final Vinyl (http://www.griffintechnology.com/software/software_imic.html) that can be used to record audio.
3) We have sound!
For most of us, simply plugging in and playing dulcimer is what we aim to do. Of course, getting the best quality recording possible should be the goal for any performer, from hobbyists to professionals. A good, clean recording makes it easier for others to enjoy your music, so care should be used when tracking a song. Good microphone placement is very key here, too close and you'll get a lot of fret noise and knocks, too far and you'll get a lot of room tone which will result in hiss. Wearing headphones, experiment with the microphone placement until you get the best sound. Obviously you're limited in positioning if you've got a desk-top mic (all the more reason to invest in a SM-57 and a microphone stand), but a stand can be rigged with plenty of ingenuity, just so long as the microphone points towards the sound holes of the instrument. Check your audio level by playing the dulcimer and watching the audio meter (which should be a part of any recording program) light up. The colored bars, which go from green to red as they ascend, should light up to the area around where green and yellow intersect. Much louder than that, into the red, may result in "clipping", or unwanted distortion. Play at the loudest volume you intend to reach, to get an accurate reading. Once you've got microphone set and levels are a go, the only thing left to do is to push the record button and play your heart out!
4) Finishing The Song
Two things to consider at this point: if you slip up or make a mistake, you can either re-do the track from scratch, or you can edit many takes of a performance together by using an audio editing program such as Audacity (which is free - http://audacity.sourceforge.net/) or Peak (http://www.bias-inc.com/). Garageband also makes this very, very easy to do, as it allows you to record multiple tracks (again, another tutorial would cover the ins and outs of audio editing.) The other thing to consider is your final output or mix. If it's just solo dulcimer that you're recording, it's just a matter of making sure, once again, that your levels don't push too far into the yellow meter bars, or the sound will distort. If your levels are too low, folks who hear your performance may also hear a lot of hiss and room noise that gets in between you and your beautiful music. If you're recording a duo or a group of jammers, one microphone will work, but it's much better for this kind of recording to get two condenser microphones ("a stereo pair") set up to record everyone at once. Programs like Garageband will help you to isolate every performance, which you can then independently control while mixing.
While mixing your final track, it's helpful to make use of the EQ settings of your program. Equalization is just another way of adjusting levels, only in a more detailed way. Does your dulcimer sound too boomy or muffled? Adjusting in the high-mid (1,000Hz to 5,000Hz) and high (5,000Hz to 20,000Hz) ranges will help considerably. Is the sound too thin or not full enough? Boosting in the 10Hz to 200Hz range will help alleviate that. If that looks a lot more complicated than it needs to be, you're right. It's simply a matter of tweaking the sound until it "feels good" in the ears.
Music recording can be a challenge, but easily overcome by lots of experimenting and practice. The key is to tweak every knob, slide every fader, try every mic position, try different mics, record in different rooms and continue doing so until you find a combination that works for you. Before you know it, you'll be releasing your own home recordings with ease and confidence!
Bing Futch
J.O.B. Entertainment Inc.
P.O. Box 560727
Orlando, Florida 32856
(407) 342-1447
www.JobEntertainment.com
www.MohaveMusic.com
"Luxury is being understood"
